On the OU-536 road, in Tarreirigo, we find the detour to the monastery of San Pedro de Rocas, the oldest preserved hermitic sanctuary in Galicia, located on the Barbeirón mountain, surrounded by rock formations that may have given this place its name.
We know that, in the year 573, six men inherited this place. The fact that six people inherited it leads us to think about the beginning of a possible community life. San Pedro de Rocas is one of the first places in Galicia where the transition from solitary life to group life occurs. In the 9th century, life resurges in the Rocas complex during the time of Alfonso III the Great, when the figure of the knight Gemodus should be mentioned, who appears as the restorer of the monastery.
From the 10th century, San Pedro de Rocas was a monastery always dependent on Celanova, although during part of the 12th century it was linked to Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil.
At the end of the 15th century, the Benedictine reform was imposed in Galicia. This reform led to the grouping of monasteries and San Pedro de Rocas was incorporated as an administrative priory to San Salvador de Celanova. The life of the monastery as an autonomous monastery ends, becoming a parish governed by monks until the disentailment. The monastery suffered several significant fires. One in the 10th century destroyed the archive. In 1928, another documented fire was devastating and reduced San Pedro de Rocas to a deplorable state. The decision was made not to restore the church and to build a new one, simpler, in Quinta do Monte. The bells were moved there, and a new cemetery was built.
The first thing we encounter upon arrival is what is known as the Prioral House, a building from the late 17th century that probably occupies the site where the original monastery was located, which disappeared after being destroyed in one of the many fires that ravaged this place. Currently, it houses an interpretation center of Ribeira Sacra. Next to it is the church, which is undoubtedly the most important part of the architectural complex.
At the end of the 6th century, nothing of what currently makes up the complex would exist except for the caves. Three caves would pierce the mountain, and in them, six men would live a semi-community life or perhaps already in complete community. We know that they constituted a Christian group. The church, as we see it today, was formed between the 12th and 13th centuries. The naves were provided with a facade through arches added to two of the accesses. It has a central chapel and two lateral ones. Facing forward from the entrance door, in the left side chapel, there is a tomb under an arch, possibly that of Gemodus. On the wall under the arch, between the years 1175 and 1200, an unprecedented mural painting in Galicia was created, which has the peculiarity of being the only mural map of the world known from the Romanesque period. The map described the apostolic diaspora, although humidity problems have deteriorated it.
Another peculiarity of San Pedro de Rocas is that it preserves a series of anthropomorphic tombs on the church floor.
The current facade of the church was erected in the 19th century and was designed to imitate the construction style of the Priory House.
The bell tower has been and probably will be the symbol of this monastery. Although it is a quite common belfry in Galicia, what makes it different from anything we may have seen so far is its location, as it is situated on a natural rock monolith of great height. Another must-visit spot is the San Benito fountain, which is said to have miraculous waters. It is a natural spring, where water flows between the rocks. This fountain was traditionally dedicated by the locals to San Benito. In the past, it was said that whoever dipped a wart in the water and prayed a Our Father would be cured. Ribeira Sacra Interpretation Center:
Located in the priory building that is part of the San Pedro de Rocas complex, it features an exhibition divided into two floors: on the upper floor, traditional trades of the area such as knife sharpeners, distillers, ropemakers, or potters are explained; and in another room, the world of Ribeira Sacra wine is showcased.
The lower part is reserved for the interpretation of monastic life in the monastery, the Ribeira Sacra landscape, and the history of the place.